Rolex is widely recognized as the world's most famous luxury watch brand. This global reputation didn't happen overnight; it has been built over many decades of success and a strong presence in popular culture.
Rolex's connections with iconic figures like Paul Newman and James Bond have only added to its legendary status. Known for its blend of exceptional functionality and striking elegance, Rolex is considered one of the finest luxury watches available today.
Therefore, here we have got you the top 9 things you didn’t know about Rolex.
1. Solid End Link Bracelets with Pierced Lugs on Rolex Submariner, GMT-Master II, and Explorer II
First on the list are the stainless steel sport models from Rolex, specifically the Submariner, Explorer II, and GMT-Master II from the early 2000s. Around 2001, these models were upgraded with solid end link (SEL) bracelets. This means the two links connecting the bracelet to the watch case are made from solid blocks of stainless steel, providing a more secure and sturdy fit.
What makes this interesting is that these watches featured a mix of modern and vintage design elements for a few years. For example, the Submariner transitioned from model 16610 to 16610T, where the lug holes (the small holes on the watch case for the bracelet pins) were closed off.
But before this transition, you could get a watch with modern SEL bracelets combined with the older, pierced lug style. This unique overlap highlights that Rolex doesn’t always have a clear or immediate transition between model updates.
However, the styling wasn’t uniformly applied across all models, like the no-date Submariner 14060, which never received a solid end link bracelet. This shows how Rolex updates can be unpredictable and not always uniform across their models.
2. "Stick Dial" Rolex GMT-Master II
The Rolex GMT-Master II, model 16710, was discontinued in 2007-2008 and replaced by the ceramic GMT-Master II, model 116710. However, just before it was phased out, something unusual happened with its dial.
Typically, the watch displayed "GMT-Master II" with the "II" in Roman numerals. But in some of the last versions of the 16710, Rolex replaced the Roman numeral "II" with two capital "I"s, making it look like "GMT-Master II."
This change was subtle and unexpected, and Rolex never officially explained why it happened. It’s one of those small changes that make collecting Rolex watches so fascinating. These versions of the 16710 with the two "I"s are known among collectors as the "stick dial" GMT-Master II.
3. Anti-Reflective Cyclops on the Rolex Submariner
Next, let’s discuss the exciting details regarding the Cyclops lens on the Rolex Submariner. Specifically, we’re focusing on transitioning from the older five-digit Submariner models to the newer six-digit ceramic Submariners.
When Rolex introduced the six-digit Submariner, model 116610, they added an anti-reflective coating to the Cyclops lens, which reduced glare and made it easier to read the date from different angles.
However, near the end of the production of the five-digit Submariners, Rolex ran out of the older crystals and began using the newer crystals with the anti-reflective coating intended for the six-digit models. This means that some of the late five-digit Submariners were produced with this anti-reflective Cyclops, even though they were technically an older model.
This small detail highlights how there can be unexpected overlaps between production phases and new product launches.
4. The Rolex Calibre 3186 in Sport Models
The GMT-Master II (model 16710) and the Explorer II (model 16570) watches originally used the Rolex GMT complication, the Calibre 3185 movement. However, as the production of these models was ending, Rolex stopped making the Calibre 3185 earlier than expected.
With the older movement no longer available, Rolex decided to install the newer Calibre 3186 in the final versions of both the GMT-Master II and the Explorer II. This movement was actually intended for the GMT-Master II’s successor, model 116710. As a result, the last batch of these older models ended up with the newer Calibre 3186 inside.
Things got more complex when the next generation of these watches was released. The GMT-Master II 116710 continued with the Calibre 3186, while the new, larger 42mm Explorer II (model 216570) came with an entirely different movement, the Calibre 3187. This larger movement was designed to fit the bigger case, showing that Rolex often makes unexpected decisions with its models.
This history is a bit complicated, but it highlights how Rolex doesn’t always have clear-cut transitions between models and movements. It makes their watches so intriguing to collectors, even if the details can be a bit dense to wade through.
5. Rolex Service Laser-Etched Coronet on Crystals
Here’s an interesting detail about Rolex watches. You might have heard of the term "LEC" or laser-etched coronet. Starting in the early 2000s, Rolex began etching a tiny coronet (crown) onto the crystal of their watches to combat counterfeit models. It’s a neat feature to spot on your watch if you have one from this period.
But there’s more to it. If you send your watch to an authorized Rolex service center and they replace the crystal, the new crystal will still have the LEC. However, there's a small, hard-to-see detail that makes it unique. In the small opening of the coronet, there’s a sideways "S" etched inside, indicating that it’s a service replacement crystal.
This subtle mark verifies the crystal as a genuine Rolex part and tells you that it’s an official service replacement. It’s a fun and quirky way Rolex adds a little piece of history to their watches, leaving clues that connect to its journey over time.
6. Rolex Explorer Dial Evolution
The Rolex Explorer's history, specifically its dial's design, begins in the 1980s with the Rolex Explorer model 1016. This model is famous for its Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, and 9 positions, all of which were luminescent. This feature made the watch easy to read in the dark, which is important for a sports watch.
However, when Rolex introduced the Explorer 14270 as the successor, they kept the same 3, 6, and 9 designs, but these numerals were no longer luminescent. Even though they looked similar to the other hour markers, they didn’t glow in the dark, which seemed odd for a watch meant for adventure.
The next model, the 114270, continued this trend—still, no lume on those key numerals, even though it appeared there might be. Then came the 214270, where Rolex made another change: the 3, 6, and 9 were now high-polished gold and didn’t match the other hour markers at all.
Finally, in 2016, Rolex corrected this with the 214270 Mark II, bringing back the luminescent 3, 6, and 9, much like the original 1016. This change returned the Explorer to its roots, making it both stylish and functional again.
7. Comparing 5-Digit and 6-Digit Rolex Bracelets
Here’s an interesting fact about Rolex bracelets that might not affect everyone but is worth noting. Older Rolex watches with 5-digit reference numbers have hollow bracelets, which means the center links aren’t solid. This applies to both Jubilee and Oyster bracelets.
A particular issue with these older bracelets is that you couldn’t remove as many links on the 6 o’clock side—the side that wraps under your wrist.
For those with smaller wrists, under or around 6.5 inches, this could make the clasp sit awkwardly on the wrist. This isn’t a problem for everyone, but if you have a smaller wrist and are considering a watch with a 5-digit reference, be aware that it won’t have a fully solid bracelet, which might affect comfort.
8. The Rolex Flat 4
Now, let’s talk about a small but significant detail known as the “Rolex Flat 4.” This refers to the number 4 on the dive bezel of a Rolex Submariner, specifically in the number “40.” In earlier models, the 4 had a flat top, but Rolex later changed the font to a pointed 4.
This change coincided with the release of the anniversary Submariner, model 16610LV, also known as the “Kermit,” which featured a green bezel and a maxi dial. Some of these anniversary models were made with the older flat 4 bezel before the font was updated, making them rare and highly sought after in the pre-owned market. The value of these models has increased significantly simply because of this small, flat 4 detail.
9. Rolex Daytona Lugs
The lugs on the stainless steel Rolex Daytona are not symmetrical. The right-side lugs are slightly thinner or have a different taper than those on the left side, likely due to a milling process that makes the chronograph pushers easier to access.
Interestingly, this change is specific to the stainless steel Daytona, as the lugs on precious metal Daytona models are symmetrical. The reason for this difference remains unclear, but it’s one of the most fascinating and peculiar details in the current Rolex lineup.
A Few Interesting Facts You Didn’t Know About Rolex
- Rolex originally started in London before moving to Switzerland in 1919.
- Every Rolex watch is handcrafted in Switzerland taking about a year to complete.
- Rolex uses 904L stainless steel, which is more expensive and durable than the steel used by other luxury watch brands.
- Each Rolex watch undergoes a pressure test, and any watch that leaks is scrapped.
- Rolex manufactures its own gold to ensure consistent quality in its watches.
- A Rolex watch was worn during a dive to the Mariana Trench, proving its durability at extreme depths.
- The most expensive Rolex ever sold was a 1968 Daytona, fetching $17.75 million at auction.
- Rolex headquarters have extreme security measures, including fingerprint and iris scanners.
- The meaning of the name "Rolex" is unknown, chosen for its simplicity and appearance.
- Rolex uses "IIII" instead of "IV" for the number four on its watch dials.
Final Thoughts on Top 9 Things You Didn’t Know About Rolex
Rolex watches are filled with interesting details that make them unique. From the evolution of its iconic models to the small design changes that collectors love, there’s always something new to learn about Rolex. Whether you're a long-time fan or just getting into Rolex, knowing these little-known facts helps you appreciate the brand even more.
Music City Timepieces is here to help you find the perfect Rolex that suits your style and needs. Whether you are searching for a rare model or need expert advice, we’re here to guide you.
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